How to Remove Basic Stains
When dealing with a
stain, a lot of people think they can improvise. After a spill, they head to
the cleaning cupboard, pick what they believe might work, and give it a go.
When that doesn't remove the stain, they try something else, then when that
isn't successful, they bring out another product and on it goes until they end
up making an even worse mess. Keep in mind that every time you add another
chemical, you change the stain's chemical signature. For example, if you spill
red wine on the carpet, clean it with bicarb and vinegar; however; if you've
mistakenly used soda water; then a spot remover, you can't can't then just use
bicarb and vinegar because the stain signature has altered. You're no longer
dealing with a simple red wine spill - you have to remove the new stains you've
created in addition to the red wine stain! The take-home message from this is:
fist, work out what the stain is, then what the surface is and fix it.
Here is a checklist of things to consider before tackling a stain:
Work
out what the stain is made of: is
it protein, fat, chemical/biological dye or resin/glue?
Know
what the surface is - the kind of fabric, flooring,
benchtop etc. that you've stained.
Know
the appropriate chemicals to use to remove the stain. If in doubt, speak to an expert. Try to minimise
the number of chemicals you use.
Unless
you know it will work, always do a test patch first. It's a good practice run!
Never
spot clean stains on your carpet within four weeks of it being stream cleaned. Vacuum clean the carpet four times before you
spot clean it as spot cleaning stains can adversely react with steam cleaning
chemicals.
Never
use excessive water or moisture on carpet. More
is not better!
Wear
appropriate clothing, such as gloves, goggles and mask, especially when using
heavy chemicals.
Don't
make chemical mixes you don't understand. Mixing certain chemicals can create toxic fumes.
You could add one chemical to another and create a toxic fume, ruin a surface
or even have an explosion!
Remove
stains as soon as you notice them. Don't
wait - they become harder to shift with time.
Stain-removals solutions are not interchangeable. You can't use advice relating to carpet on
your woolen jumper . Every surface is different.
There
is no substitution or approximation. If
you don't know, get expert help.
Protein
stains are one of the trickiest to
remove because you must not use heat, detergents or many commercial spot
removal products on or near them. If you do, it sets the stain. It's just like
cooking an egg which goes hard as soon as you add heat. Many proprietary cleaning
products will set protein stains. The best way to remove protein stains is with
facial soap, cold water and, if it's on carpet, a little water. Scrub soap on
the stain, then blot it with a paper towel until it has been removed. Protein
includes any animal product such as blood, gravy, meat, eggs, cheese, milk,
seeds and beans, Once you remove the protein part of the stain, you can then
apply heat to remove other stains.
Oil,
grease and fats include vegetable oil and butter.
The best de-greaser is dish-washing detergent. You can see how it works when
detergent is added to a greasy sink! Be aware that fat stains are often
combined with protein stains. If food has been cooked in oil, or has fat in it,
such as a lamb chop, the protein part of the stain has to be removed first.
Make-up generally contains lots of oil too; detergent is the solvent to use.
The best way to determine oil stains is by rubbing the stain between your
fingers - fat and oil make your skin slippery and shiny. To remove them, use
detergent and warm water. Only use the tiniest amount of water on carpet or
upholstery.
Carbohydrates are starches and sugars. They're found in potato,
rice and paper glues. The best way to deal with these stains is to allows them
to dry, then brush or vacuum them out. For example, if you spill rice on the
carpet, remove any solids, pat the area with paper towel, leave to dry then
vacuum. If the stain has any other component, such as salt, dilute with a
little water first, then apply the process describe above. For sugar stains,
add a little vinegar or a little detergent to help break then down.
Inks,
paints and dyes require a solvent. Vegetable
dyes, such as those found in artificial or naturally coloured foods, are best
removed with sunshine. If you can't get the stain in the sun, use an
ultraviolet light which can be hired from the chemist. Sponge the area with a
small amount of equal parts lemon juice and water then aim the ultraviolet
light over the stain. Check the stain every 2 hours until it fades. Some vegetable
dyes oxidise, which means they respond to oxygen in the air - like a cut apple
turning brown on its surface. As they oxidise, a tannin stain is produced.
Remove tannin stains by wiping with a little glycerine, leave for 15 minutes
then sponge out with a cloth that's been wrung out in vinegar. Repeat until the
stain is gone. The glycerine takes the stain backwards in time a little. This
procedure is particularly good for beetroot stains. Again, if the stain is on
carpet, don't use too much moisture.
To remove paint stains,
you need to know if the paint is water-based, acrylic or oil based. For
children's water-based paints, remove with soap and water. For acrylic house
paint or tube paint, use methylatd spirits. If oil-based, use white spirit/dry
cleaning fluid.
Resin
stains require a chemical solvent. For apoxy resins, use acetone. You must use
acetone and not nail-polish remover. Take care using heavy chemical solvents.
Be mindful that the solvent may break down surfaces around the stain. For
example, white spirit/dry cleaning fluid will break down paint, so only apply
the solvent to the stain itself, rather than the surrounding area. Be careful
how much you use.
Quick Guide to Removing Stains
Below is a kind of
ready reference or quick guide to stain removal from fabrics:
Beer
(including dark beer) Paint a paste of Napisan Oxygen
on the stain and leave for 15 minutes. Then wash normally.
Beetroot Treat with glycerine before washing normally.
Bird
droppings Wash fabric normally.
Blood Wash fresh bloodstains through the washing machine
on the cold setting. If you can't, use cornflour and water. For old
bloodstains, use cold water and soap.
Chewing
gum Harden the gum with ice and cut
as much of as possible with scissors or a blade. Then apply dry cleaning fluid
with a cotton ball, sprinkle talcum powder to absorb it and work the remaining
gum out by rubbing in circles.
Chocolate First clean with soap and cold water. Then clean
with soap and hot water.
Coffee
or tea For fresh stains, use glycerine
applied with a cotton ball, then wash in washing powder. For old stains, use
glycerine, then dry-cleaning fluid and detergent.
Deodorant Use dry-cleaning fluid before washing.
Egg
yolk Use soap and cold water first,
then washing powder and warm water
Fruit
juice Use detergent and sunshine. For stone
fruits and fruits with a high tannin, treat the stain with glycerine first.
Grass Use dry-cleaning fluid before washing in washing
powder.
Grease
and oil Detergent suds. For heavy
staining, soak in baby oil first.
Hair
dye Dry-cleaning fluid or kerosense,
or hairspray if you can get to the stain immediately.
Ink
or ballpoint pen Rotten milk or dry-cleaning
fluid. Use glycerine first on red ink.
Lipstick
and make-up Dry-cleaning fluid.
Milk Wash normally on cold cycle.
Mud For red clay mud, apply dry-cleaning fluid then
wash. For black mud, wash in the washing machine.
Nail
polish Apply acetone, not nail polish
remover.
Paint For water-based paint, use methylated spirits. For
oil-based paints, use turpentine.
Rust Use CLR or lemon juice and salt.
Sap Apply dry-cleaning fluid.
Shoe
polish Use methylated spirits.
Soft
drinks Treat as though it's fruit stain
because soft drink are made of vegetable dyes.
Sweat Make a paste of Napisan Oxygen and
water and leave on the stain for 15 minutes before washing normally.
Tar Use baby oil, kerosene or dry-cleaning fluid.
Urine Wash in washing powder and dry in sunshine.
Vomit Washing powder, sunshine or Napisan,
washing machine and dryer.
Wax Ice, dry-cleaning fluid, talcum powder.
Wine New red wine - vinegar. Old red wine - glycerine,
bicarb and vinegar. White wine - vinegar.
Prevention is Better than Cure
It's a well-known
phrase, but a good one. Ask yourself before you embark on an activity; what can
go wrong and how can I prevent it? Try to anticipate potential stains and put
into place measures to avoid them. For example, for high dirt areas, spray
carpet with Scotchgard (this works on shirts as well); use old
newspapers on the tops of cupboards to capture grease and grime. Don't do
things like serve spaghetti bolognese on white shag-pile carpet - your're just
asking for trouble! Create specific areas for doing messy jobs. For example,
clean shoes outside or on several layers of newspaper.
And remember: when
removing stains from carpet, always rinse chemicals out after you've cleaned.
This applies even with basic chemicals such as vinegar and milk. If you don't
you'll be left with bad smells and more stains.
When doing the
laundry, prevent disasters by reading the labels on your clothes. Use the
recommended washing temperature. If the information isn't included on your
clothes, I recommend washing in warm water - unless there's a protein stain. If
there's a protein stain, wash in cold water. Warm water relaxes the fibers and
makes cleaning easier. To avoid shrinkage, use the same water temperature in
the wash and rinse water. Wash woolens in blood-heat water.
For new garments,
put the iron on a cool setting in case the garment contains a fiber, such as elastin, that reacts with heat. You don't want to end up with a shriveled
shirt! Never iron clothes with any stains on them because you will set the
stain.
Since
cleaning is essential for a healthy comfortable lifestyle, make it fun: stick a
smile on your dial and do it together. Alternatively, you can always get a free quote from one our accredited Auckland commercial cleaners.